Buy the Ooni Koda 12
If you’re looking for an alternative to the garden barbeque this summer, then the gas-powered Ooni Koda could be just the ticket. There are two different sizes of this particular model: the 12-inch (as tested in this review) and the 16-inch, which is better for larger parties, big families, or just if you want to makebigpizzas.
All of Ooni’s pizza ovens come with a ‘Great Pizza Guarantee’, so do the claims from this Edinburgh-based company live up to the hype? Or is it just a load of hot air? We put the Ooni Koda 12 through its paces to find out.
Design
The oven comes fully assembled andalmostready to go, right out of the box. All you need to do is unfold the legs, slide the pizza stone inside the oven and hook up your gas canister. Providing we’re not being treated to a summer deluge, and depending on whether you’ve already got some pizza dough proving in the fridge (cold proving, for the win!), you’ll be eating your own, handmade Neapolitan-style pizza within the hour.
Bonus points are awarded for coming in fully-recyclable cardboard packaging.
The design is simple; a sleek black UFO-like shape on legs, with a letterbox-style opening at the front and gas burners at the back. There is just one knob which controls both ignition and gas flow (i.e., how hot it gets), but by keeping the controls to a minimum it also helps keep the weight down.
The outer shell is made from thick powder-coated carbon steel and insulated with ceramic, so insulation quality is excellent, not to mention it’s easy to keep looking nice.
It’s lightweight and highly portable, too, weighing in at just 9.25kg, whereas the 16-inch model tips the scales at the 18.2kg mark. It’s relatively small, too, measuring just 29.5 x 40 x 63cm, so it’s easy to pack up and store at the end of the day.
Features
这不是一个产品,需要所有的钟声和whistles to be great. There’s no temperature gauge, no door on the front and it’s not weatherproof. Instead, the magic lies within the build itself (and, are you really going to be sitting outside eating pizza in the pouring rain, anyway?).
The single 13,648 BTU burner at the back is more than up to the job, which coupled with the oven’s excellent heat retention qualities, means that it gets up to ready-to-cook heat in around 15 minutes.
It’s a sturdy freestanding unit, with three fold-out legs that tuck into the bottom of the oven when not in use. Weighing in at just 9.25kg, it’s highly portable so it’s no problem should you need to swivel it around to compensate for an unfavourable wind direction (always avoid having the wind blowing directly into the opening).
The pizza itself is cooked on a pizza stone made from solid cordierite (a type of mineral commonly used to make kiln shelves), which can not only withstand extreme temperatures, but heat distribution is even across the stone, and it absorbs moisture from the dough helping to achieve the perfect base.
Cordierite is stronger and more durable than stones made from ceramic or clay as it has a lower thermal expansion, meaning it’s less prone to cracking. But, should the worst happen and you do manage to crack your stone (avoid exposing your stone to excess moisture, store the stone in the oven and you’ll have no issues), replacements are available at around £25 a pop.
Cooking experience and ease of use
If you have experience with gas, fire, and making dough, then you’ll have no problems. And if you don’t, then Ooni provide plenty oftutorials and recipes on their website.
We used a 5kg ‘Patio Gas’ cannister for ease of portability, which is more than sufficient and will likely see you through the summer (around 13-14 hours of gas-burning time), so don’t overload yourself with a hefty 13kg (plus there’s the weight of the canister itself to add to that) – unless you have other uses for it.
There is only one control on the Ooni Koda 12: a single knob at the back which is both ignition and temperature control, so when you’re setting up, make sure this is accessible and not blocked by a wall.
Once you’ve hooked up your gas, it’s a convenient way to fire up your oven, and it’s nice not having to fiddle around with long matches to light the flame. And you’ll need to use an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the oven and pizza stone, as there’s not an in-built thermometer, but this is a simple point-and-click action.
Once it’s in the oven, you’ll need to watch the pizza like a hawk; the heat source is at the back, so it’s easy to burn the crust. Regular turning gets the best results, as this prevents the pizza crust nearest the burners from getting scorched.
If you don’t have a turning pizza peel, you’ll need to slide in a regular peel, pull out the pizza then physically turn it on the peel before shovelling it back into the oven. But once you’ve got the drop on turning pizzas, it becomes second nature, and you’ll be pivoting like a pro.
Instead of opting for the frenetic pace of making a 60-second pizza, we found that by increasing cooking time to around 4 minutes on a slightly lower heat (around 410 degrees Celsius) while turning the pizza every 25 seconds or so, yielded a more satisfying crust and base.
Think crispy crusts with a soft dough and bubbling, gooey toppings. Just don’t worry when the leftover flour on the stone catches on fire in between pizzas (and it more than likely will at some point); let it burn off and the flames will subside in a few seconds.
Some of the heat is lost towards the front of the oven, as there’s no door to retain heat (like the Ooni Frya) so it’s essential you keep it sheltered and away from blustery conditions.
Cleaning is super easy, in fact it’s better not to clean your pizza stone with water as you risk damaging it. All you need to do is let the oven run for 30 minutes after finishing your pizza party to burn off excess residue, then after you’ve completely finished, you’ll need to wait around an hour to 90 minutes for it to be cool enough to pack up.
It’s normal for the stone to become discoloured over time, so don’t worry about that – it’s the sign of a well-used oven!
The all-important taste-test
But for all its specs, all this essentially boils down to one thing; how was the finished pizza? Well, you could argue that is down to the ingredients, but we’re also looking at the quality and consistency of both the pizza crust and toppings.
Once you’ve made the dough, put it on the peelthenadd your toppings. It’s much easier than trying to wrangle your beautifully prepped pizza onto the peel. Sprinkle a healthy helping of semolina flour to prevent unwanted stickiness, and make sure the dough has plenty of flour so you can turn it easily.
You’ll also need to leave a few minutes between pizzas, so the pizza stone can regain some of the heat.
As long as you turn the pizza every 20-30 seconds, it’s relatively easy to achieve that desirable light and airy crust (we had one burnt mishap where we forgot to turn it). But by keeping a close eye on your creation as it cooks, you’ll be treated to a golden-brown crust that’s crispy on the outside and pillowy soft on the inside, with a nice helping of leopard-like spots.
The cheese was bubbly and lightly browned, and the toppings were cooked just right. You’ll know your pizza is ready when the crust starts to go golden, and the cheese has melted nicely. But being gas-powered you do miss that smoky taste from wood-fired ovens.
The sauce, made from ripe, sun-kissed tomatoes, crushed and seasoned with a pinch of salt, a dash of olive oil, and a hint of garlic and fresh basil, was the first to go onto the base. Tearing buffalo mozzarella into small pieces and scattering across the sauce-covered base, allowed the flavours to melt and mingle together.
Once cooked, the sweet and tangy tomato sauce is perfectly balanced with the creamy buffalo mozzarella, and whichever toppings you’ve opted for (we’ve gone for peppers, bacon, a healthy helping of olives, and more cheese).
The cheese was creamy, and slightly elastic when melted, with that oh-so-desirable cheese pull with each slice. A sprinkle of some freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano (or Pecorino Romano) on top, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil over the pizza once it’s out, adds the perfect finishing touch.
Other than tinkering with recipes, in terms of cooking it’s difficult to improve on the finished pizza. A soft, golden-brown crust, beautifully risen at the edges, a thin crispy base, and perfect leopard spots complemented with lightly cooked toppings where the natural flavours and textures are preserved, are the order of the day.
Verdict
The Ooni Koda 12 is a fun, no-fuss addition to the world of outdoor cooking. Its simple design, rapid preheating capabilities and powerful heat output means you can get on with the really important stuff: having fun (isn’t that what life’s about?) and eating, with the added satisfaction of knowing you’ve created something rather special.
It’s gas-powered, reaching 500 degrees Celsius in just 15 minutes, allowing you to cook mouth-watering pizzas in a matter of minutes (and they really aregoodpizzas), without the hassle of keeping a fire going. The only catch being that you do lose that wonderful smoky taste that a wood-fired oven gives, although that won’t be everyone’s cup of tea anyway.
You’ll need a couple of accessories off the bat: a peel and an infrared thermometer are essential, and the whole thing makes for a good social occasion. The fast-cooking time of each pizza makes it easy to produce a variety in quick succession, and overall a brilliant alternative (or addition!) to a BBQ, or even as a quick mid-week pick-me-up.
Alternatives
Ninja Woodfire BBQ grill
If you’re after a BBQ rather than a pizza oven and really have a hankering for that woodfired, smoky taste, then you might like to consider the Ninja Woodfire BBQ grill. Equipped with a large cooking surface and a powerful wood-burning firebox, this grill offers the convenience of a gas grill combined with the unmistakable smoky flavour of traditional wood-fired cooking.
与Ooni哥达,有控制s for precise temperature control, making it ideal for grilling, smoking, baking, and even rotisserie cooking. The heavy-duty construction and durable materials boast longevity and decent performance, while thoughtful features like adjustable grates, removable ash trays, and easy-to-clean surfaces make maintenance that little bit easier.
George Foreman On-The-Go
If you just want to upgrade your disposable BBQ, but are still after cheap and cheerful, then the George Foreman On-The-Go portable charcoal BBQ could be a good option. It all packs up like a toolbox, just close and lock the lid, grab the handle, and go. It’s deceptively spacious, too; the grill area is a generous 43cm x 26cm, which is enough to fit 12 burgers at once. Ideal for picnics, it weighs just 6.3kg so it’s lighter and more portable than the Ooni Koda.
Weber Go-Anywhere
乔治·福尔曼,韦伯Go-Anywhe相似re is a premium, but travel-sized charcoal BBQ grill. Compact and portable, it features a durable porcelain-enamelled lid and base, ensuring consistent temperatures, excellent heat retention and even cooking. The plated steel cooking grate provides ample grilling space for burgers, hotdogs, steaks, sweetcorn, while the pivoting legs fold to secure the lid in place during transportation.
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Buy the Ooni Koda 12
Authors
Holly is the staff writer at BBC Science Focus, and specialises in astronomy. Before joining the team she was a geoenvironmental consultant and holds an MSc in Geoscience (distinction) from UCL.